When a cool, Younger wine begins on the vineyard

Winemaker Hamish Younger… “I’m not about butting heads with anybody.”

“My focus is working with good individuals all through the entire course of,” cool-climate winemaker Hamish Younger tells wine columnist RICHARD CALVER.

LET’S face it, deep breath, wine isn’t a necessity of life.  It’s one thing that we get pleasure from and it’s paid for out of discretionary revenue. 

Richard Calver.

Therefore, simply as with different gadgets which are good to have fairly than important to fulfill our wants, wine is topic to the vagaries of vogue.  

My daughter launched me to what she believes is a vineyard that has hit the mark on the style entrance in that these wines enchantment to her technology. That is mirrored in two wines that I’ve loved regardless of them being trendy fairly than due to that issue.

The Mada 2022 Nebbiolo Rosé was on supply on the Parberry Lane bar and restaurant that’s nestled away in a cosmopolitan growth in Kingston. 

It is a funky, city web site extra harking back to Melbourne internal metropolis than a Canberra venue. 

The rosé was $14 a glass and had a posh flavour of spice and pears and a wealthy mouth really feel. Roses can usually be bland, however this one has complexity. 

“Nebbiolo is a good selection for rosé due to the advantageous tannins. This factor ensures you will have an exquisite structural rose as you possibly can construct the palate round these tannins,” says Hamish Younger, the winemaker and proprietor at Mada. 

Hamish instructed me that he works with an unbelievable variety of good individuals and “chopping out the crap” that individuals usually put up with in day by day life is one in all his targets to make sure he has freedom to provide his wines.

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“My focus is working with good individuals all through the entire course of,” he says. 

“From the gifted viticulturalists, proper by means of to wonderful bars, bottle retailers and eating places that characterize our wines, I’m not about butting heads with anybody.”

The second wine is a mix of three whites, gewurztraminer heavy (60-70 per cent) with pinot gris and riesling. It’s marketed beneath the title Blanc and prices round $30 a bottle. I discovered it to be totally different from the Alsatian model of white blends which are usually pinot-gris dominant.  

The Blanc is nice but spicy with a ginger again palate. It’s a good meals wine and went nicely with salmon that was cooked with citrus. 

I requested Hamish how he had provide you with this mix and he stated it was by means of persistence working the gewurztraminer berries in order to melt the aromatics barely to provide a vibrant wine with texture that, at one degree, might simply be loved, ingesting within the solar, however when peeled again could possibly be examined as a multi-layered wine.

Hamish is, like me, a refugee from NZ. He was born in and labored in Gisborne and moved to Australia in 2006. He realized the artwork of winemaking within the cool local weather space of Gisborne and did his research by means of the Japanese Institute of Expertise in Napier, house to NZ’s finest art-deco structure. 

Hamish moved to Australia to get extra expertise and he and his now spouse, Rebecca, moved to the Barossa the place he labored for Eden Street Wines that now has a base in Canberra.

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He got here right here to proceed working for Eden Street. He instructed me he settled right here as a result of he loves making the cool-climate model of wines that Canberra, Hilltops and Tumbarumba is famend for.  

He began Mada in 2016 and now has a half curiosity in a riesling winery, which he leases collectively along with his good buddy Nick O’Leary.  

“It’s out in direction of Gundaroo and is three hectares or so. The harvest from there got here off in early April and the majority of that crop will go right into a straight riesling,” he says.

I can’t wait to style the newest classic, because the 2021 riesling has been bought out, such is the demand for this wine. Trendy or not, Mada has hit the mark.  

“Model is one thing every of us already has, all we have to do is use it.” –Diane von Furstenberg


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Ian Meikle, editor