Critical about meals that comes with out pretension

Insurgent Insurgent’s Fiore di Burrata… the radicchio, with its royal color, was an excellent mixture with plump grapes and crunchy walnuts. Photograph: Wendy Johnson

Eating reviewer WENDY JOHNSON orders Wagyu tongue and Insurgent Insurgent comes up trumps.

I WASN’T in any respect stunned when the “Sydney Morning Herald’s Good Meals Information” awarded Insurgent Insurgent a Chef’s Hat and pronounced the restaurant as “stylishly easy and all issues to all comers”. It’s, past doubt, one in all Canberra’s prime locations to dine.

Wendy Johnson.

The menu has modified since our go to, however some standouts stay, and with good motive. 

Let’s begin with the Wagyu tongue ($28). This will likely properly not be one thing everybody dares to deal with within the kitchen at house. Nonetheless, ordering tongue at a spot of the calibre of Insurgent Insurgent ensures a shocking consequence. 

The dish was sensational and showcased how Insurgent Insurgent dares to be totally different. The tongue was served with vibrant peppers on prime that added a sweetness and a burst of color. The tongue was mushy, not chewy, and never overly robust. All of us adored the expertise, even a buddy who arrived a bit late. We didn’t inform her what the dish was till she had indulged. 

Additionally nonetheless on the menu is the burrata, a visible star of a dish. Not everybody loves the feel of burrata, which might fluctuate fairly a bit. I’ve had very good takes on this mushy, stringy cheese and a few horrible experiences. Insurgent Insurgent’s Fiore di Burrata is superb, and the salad celebrates candy and bitter and crunch ($12). The radicchio, with its royal color, was an excellent mixture with plump grapes and crunchy walnuts. 

Insurgent Insurgent has been in New Acton for some years now and it’s nonetheless thrilling diners. Even the chips are to die for ($10).

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Even the chips are to die for! Photograph: Wendy Johnson

The menu adjustments often and the main target is at all times on the highest-quality elements. Premium-grade Appellation Sydney Rock Oysters come pure or with citrus Pomelo and pink peppercorn ($5 every). The Hiramasa Kingfish celebrates apples, dill and horseradish ($25). Beef tartare is a winner with anchovy, pickles and sizzling English mustard ($26).

Insurgent Insurgent has a relaxed vibe and clients can pop by for a drink and one thing mild or a full meal. The dramatic cathedral ceiling set up is from reclaimed hardwood and enjoyable components embody an out-there David Bowie portrait hanging behind the bar. Large home windows enable the sunshine in, and tables are appropriately spaced for snug eating. 

I’ve by no means been for breakfast however have put it on my record for 2023. The charred sourdough, asparagus, broad beans (one in all my all-time faves) and ricotta salata sounds elegant ($14). Similar with baked eggs with Shankleesh and chilli Aleppo pepper ($18). How a couple of little bit of black pudding with fried eggs and punchy pickles ($19)?

Insurgent Insurgent is severe about meals however avoids pretension in any respect prices. The wine record presents many attention-grabbing choices obtainable by the glass.

Wagyu tongue… mushy, not chewy, and never overly robust. It was served with vibrant peppers that added sweetness and a burst of color. Photograph: Wendy Johnson