A spot of lunch with Patricia, oh, and the editor

“It’s worthwhile shelling out $70 for a bottle of this wine as a result of it stands a posh and well-balanced expression of cabernet sauvignon,” says wine author RICHARD CALVER. However what makes it so particular?

THE failure of a mate and I to evaluate one of many wines that Brown Brothers despatched me to style as a part of the twentieth launch of its premium Patricia vary, the 2018 Patricia Cabernet Sauvignon, didn’t deter. 

Richard Calver.

As a substitute, the editor of this journal and moi consumed it over lunch at Bellucci’s in Manuka on a sunny autumn day that lifted the spirits with its present of sunshine and quiet, nonetheless air.  

I prolonged this invitation regardless of the admonition by Dene October, creator of books about Dr Who and British rock, that: “A very good editor is somebody who cares rather less in regards to the creator’s wants than the reader’s.” I used to be positive our want of an honest purple was an undisputed commonality.

The restaurant was chosen as a result of it permits BYO, in addition to being licensed, and since cabernet is an effective match for Italian meals.

In my view, tannic and fruit-forward cabernet sauvignons are a superb match with any tomato-based sauces. The acidity of the wine ought to match the acidity of the tomatoes, as long as the cabernet has adequate construction to tackle the acidity of the pomme d’amour, actually for the French the “love apple”.  

Troublesome to seek out any good etymology for this nomenclature however greatest guess after a few web sites appears to be that it displays the alleged aphrodisiac qualities of tomato seeds. 

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I point out the French as a result of cabernet sauvignon originates from the Gironde within the chateau nation of south-west France, the place it’s the main element within the extremely regarded purple wine of the realm, claret.

The waiter poured our wine as quickly as we have been seated, an excellent starting as a result of the response of the wine with air markedly modified its traits over the course of an hour. 

Fairly merely, when air and wine work together, two necessary processes happen: evaporation and oxidation. These processes usually enhance the standard of the wine by altering its chemistry. 

Briefly, evaporation permits sulphites to be dissipated and for the alcohol within the wine to be much less overpowering. Oxidation can add a nuttiness and improve the fruit flavours however solely in a restricted timeframe. Oxidation may cause wine to style horrible after about two to a few days. 

The purple color of the Patricia augured properly for its depth, with the primary sniff giving a number of blackcurrant on the nostril. The primary style additionally noticed the palate pummelled by the tannins, which confirmed it had adequate construction to face as much as the daring sauce that accompanied my gnocchi, the lamb ragu with its mixture of meat and tomato depth.  

We each agreed that the wine added to the richness of the meals.  After an hour, on consumption of the second half of the bottle, the fruit traits of the wine modified after air had softened the tannins and introduced out better ranges of complexity.  

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I stated: “Exceptional isn’t it how there’s now a touch of purple fruit, how the preliminary black fruit flavours have modified.”

“Sure,” he stated, “I hate to encourage you, however the fruit has modified; sure, I can nearly style raspberry.” 

So, he gave me the raspberry however within the nicest attainable manner. He additionally remarked:

“It is a completely different expertise.  I wouldn’t often pay this a lot consideration to wine at a meal. However this one was tart in the beginning and gratifying on the finish.”

My response: at first tongue in cheek: “Somewhat tart is commonly good to seek out.” However the critical response: it’s worthwhile shelling out $70 for a bottle of this wine as a result of it stands as a posh and well-balanced expression of cabernet sauvignon.

There are extra of Richard Calver’s wine columns at citynews.com.au


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Ian Meikle, editor